Expertise and excellence honoured at the GPHG

Some 1,300 people flocked to the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva on 9 November to attend the awards ceremony for the 23^rd Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). A not-to-be-missed event for watch professionals and enthusiasts, it was broadcast live on the GPHG website, on Euronews in several languages, on Hantang Culture, the Chinese media group that covered the event on its many channels, along with deferred coverage on Geneva’s local television station Léman Bleu. Divided into 15 categories, no fewer than 90 timepieces and clocks were in the running for one of the 19 prizes awarded. The colourful evening was hosted by witty presenter Edouard Baer.

In his welcome speech, Raymond Loretan, President of the Foundation that oversees the GPHG, expressed his delight at seeing “the watchmaking family that transcends the simple value of time and pushes back the frontiers of technology while cherishing the talent and genius of true artisans”. Pointing out that the aim of the Grand Prix is to preserve and promote our horological heritage, he congratulated “not only the future winners, but also all the others who make their passion one of the pillars of our industry”.

In a sign of the growing importance of the Geneva event, Federal Councillor Guy Parmelin, speaking remotely, praised the importance of the industry to the Swiss economy, stating that “it symbolises Swiss genius. For me as Minister of the Economy, watchmaking is a bit like a red carpet rolled out when I travel abroad.”

In his usual slick manner, Edouard Baer recalled that before the jury’s verdict, the selected timepieces had travelled the globe, stopping off in Macau, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, New York and finally at the Musée Rath in Geneva, so that aficionados of fine watchmaking could admire them. He added that while every security measure had of course been taken for these long journeys, “the watches travelled in the hold, although not the people accompanying them. But rest assured, they didn’t fly in economy class...”. After a visit to the Middle East during Dubai Watch Week held from 16 to 20 November, the 90 timepieces will be exhibited one last time at the Kunsthaus in Zurich on 2 and 3 December.

Ultimate recognition
As every year, the 90 timepieces were divided into 15 categories (see the 2023 prize list), each with six contenders. The “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix, the best-in-show distinction, was awarded to Audemars Piguet for its Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. This one-of-a-kind timepiece stemming from seven years’ work is the most complicated watch ever made by the Le Brassus-based company. Within its 42mm pink gold case, this timepiece houses more than 1,100 components and a total of 40 functions, including 23 complications. These include a Grande and Petite Sonnerie, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a split-seconds flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon.

At the awards ceremony, CEO François-Henry Bennahmias paid tribute to the human genius behind the creation of this exceptional timepiece, to his teams of course, as well as “to our network of suppliers who have saved our lives on so many occasions”. The man who will be leaving the company at the end of this year took the opportunity to wish every success to Ilaria Resta, who will succeed him next January.

Among the companies nominated in various categories, Piaget won awards for two of its timepieces. The Ladies’ Watch Prize went to Hidden Treasures and the Artistic Crafts Watch Prize to Altiplano Métiers d’Art – Undulata. Inspired by the 1960s and 70s, the former is a cuff watch – an iconic brand signature – featuring an entirely hand-engraved and chased pink gold bracelet. The latter is distinguished by its exquisite miniature marquetry combining textures with shades of blue and green that makes the perfect setting for an impressive flying tourbillon.

Nocturnal ballet
The Ladies’ Complication Prize went to Dior for its Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior. Equipped with an on-demand mechanical automaton, it is a nod the history of the fashion house: its blue mother-of-pearl dial features a depiction of the historical Dior building against a star-studded night sky that comes to life at a touch of the crown-activated pusher. As Jewellery and Timepieces Global Director Lan Cittadini pointed out, “This timepiece bears the legacy of this great man, who was always striving for excellence with an eye for detail. It’s the fulfilment of his dream, which is also a dream for our customers.”

Meanwhile, Bovet 1822 won the Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize with its Récital 20 Astérium. This single-piece edition watch comprising 771 components features complex engineering that notably displays a map of the night sky showing the precise position of the stars and constellations, all governed by a sidereal calendar taking into account the duration of the Earth’s complete orbit around the Sun. Equipped with a double-sided flying tourbillon, this timepiece displays a host of other indications, including the zodiac signs, moon phases, seasons as well as solstices and equinoxes.

A real UFO
Ulysse Nardin’s Freak One won the Iconic Watch Prize. Free of any dial, hands or crown, it displays the passing minutes thanks to its orbital flying carrousel performing one full turn in one hour, the hours hand being replaced by a pointer fixed to the barrel that completes its rotation in 12 hours. In his acceptance speech, CEO Patrick Pruniaux said that this UFO embodied the brand’s spirit of freedom, independence and technical sophistication. He notably paid tribute to one of the authors of the collection, Ludwig Oechslin, former director of the Musée International de l’Horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, “who instilled his vision of simplicity in complexity”.

In the Mechanical Clock category, L’Epée 1839 was awarded the prize for its Time Fast II Chrome combining design and automobile mechanics with time measurement. In the same category, the Maison Alcée won the Audacity Prize for its case containing parts enabling novice watch enthusiasts to assemble the 233 components of the Persée Azur clock. The Chronometry Prize went to the Chronomètre FB3SPC by Ferdinand Berthoud, the only timepiece to feature a COSC-certified balance with a cylindrical balance spring. In the Mechanical Exception category, Hautlence was crowned for its Sphère Series 1 timepiece featuring a jumping hour that twirls on a three-dimensional sphere adorned with engraved numerals. Kylian-Douglass Thieulot, a student at the Geneva Watchmaking School, won the Best Young Student Prize.

Finally, each year the jury awards a Special Prize to a personality, institution or initiative that has played a major role in promoting quality watchmaking. For the 2023 edition, the two founders of the Académie horlogère des créateurs indépendants (AHCI), Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese, were awarded this distinction for having created in 1985 this association that highlights the work of independent artisans.

November 23, 2023