Winners of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

This year’s eagerly awaited watchmaking “Oscars” ceremony drew some 1,300 people to the Théâtre du Léman on 13 November. This 24^th edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) once again showcased exceptional timepieces, as well as – and perhaps first and foremost – the artisans who work passionately to bring these creations to life. Hosted for the first time by French actress Carole Bouquet and accompanied by live music, the evening was followed with rapt attention by the watchmaking microcosm.

Deeply rooted in history, the measurement of time continues to innovate, fascinate, surprise and amaze. At the heart of watchmaking, the industry’s craftsmanship has been recognised since 2020 by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage. The GPHG is more than just a prize: it aspires to elevate the measurement of time to the rank of 12th art, as Raymond Loretan, President of the foundation that oversees the event, reminded us.

Divided into 15 categories, 90 watches from 57 Maisons were in the running to win one of the 20 prizes, including the “Aiguille d’Or” best-in-show award representing the ultimate accolade. This 2024 edition saw two new categories added to the usual list: the Time Only Prize, for classic timepieces with two or three hands and no complications; as well as the Eco-Innovation Prize, which rewards a timepiece whose development emphasises sustainability and traceability.

After being meticulously shortlisted for nomination by the GPHG Academy, which currently comprises 980 members, these creations travelled the world to be presented in Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh City (Vietnam), New York and Geneva. The prize-winning watches ended their world tour in the heart of Bucharest’s university library, enablling the public to discover them during an exhibition.

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix
The ultimate accolade, this best-in-show prize was awarded to IWC Schaffhausen for its Portugieser Eternal Calendar, the Maison’s first secular perpetual calendar. Housed in a platinum case, this technical masterpiece notably features a moon-phase display endowed with unprecedented precision... The Double Moon indicator featuring a titanium disc adorned with two blue dots and a rotating glass top disk will require no adjustment for the next 45 million years – a feat made possible by a new gear train.

A triple win
As is its custom, Van Cleef & Arpels conjures up dreams and presents time in a poetic and enchanting way. The Lady Jour Nuit (Ladies’ Watch Prize) is reinterpreted in a 33mm diameter. Paved with diamonds, the moon and stars chase the sun arrayed in guilloché yellow gold. Equipped with a rotating 24-hour disc, the dial turns almost imperceptibly. Thanks to the depth effect of the Murano aventurine glass, this timepiece recreates the immensity of space.

The Lady Arpels Brise d’Eté (Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize) won over the jury with its flowery garden. Indicating the time, white and yellow gold butterflies crafted in plique-à-jour enamel take flight thanks to a module that can be activated on demand and also brings the flowers and their stems to life. Highlighted by matt mother-of-pearl, the dial reveals a poetic scene where foreground and background combine to depict a precious plantlife scene.

Winner of the Artistic Crafts Watch Prize, the Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté embodies a fascinating universe. This multi-layered scene comes to life through a play of perspectives paying tribute to Nature, an inexhaustible source of inspiration. Light shines through leaves in white gold, plique-à-jour and raised enamel along with sparkling diamonds harbouring a field of shimmering flowers.

Two award-winning pieces for Chopard
Chopard won two prizes. The first was for a High Jewellery secret watch on which time is revealed in a precious shell, accompanied by a veritable palette of sapphires, ranging from pastel blue to pink and purple, surrounding and sculpting the dial. This hypnotic miniature ecosystem took over 1,000 hours to craft.

With this first prize in his pocket, Chopard’s Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele returned to the stage to receive the Eco-Innovation Prize for the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model. This timepiece comes in a 39mm case fashioned in Lucent Steel, the brand’s exclusive alloy endowed with exclusive properties and produced with a recycling rate of at least 80%. It is also distinguished by its COSC and Fleurier Quality labels. Testifying to the expertise and innovation cultivated by the Manufacture, its L.U.C 96.09-L movement is equipped with Chopard Twin technology.

Horological Revelation
The Horological Revelation Prize went to Rémy Cools for his Tourbillon Atelier. This young artisan of time incorporates as many hand-crafted and traditional producton methods as possible into his work, with the aim of shaping sustainable timepieces. When designing this award-winning watch, particular attention was paid to the elements and their proportion. The 39mm platinum case and domed sapphire crystal provide a distinctive view of the tourbillon and time display.

Finally, as usual, the jury honoured a personality from the watchmaking world with its Special Jury Prize. This year, it was Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a creative artisan specialising in watch cases, who was surprised yet delighted to receive the distinction. Having begun his professional training in 1956 with an apprenticeship as a jeweller, this enthusiast is now one of the last craftsmen capable of developing and producing a watch case entirely with traditional hand-guided tools, such as saw, file, lathe and mill. He is considered the world’s most famous artisanal casemaker and his “JHP” signature is recognised the world over.

At the end of the evening, watchmaking excellence and the people who make the timepieces were celebrated in style. A three-hand watch, a perpetual calendar, a timepiece celebrating artistic crafts, a jewellery creation... All the timepieces in the running certainly succeeded in showcasing the rarest complication of all, that of having a soul.

2024 Prize list

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix:
IWC Schaffhausen, Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Ladies’ Watch Prize:
Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Jour Nuit

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize:
Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Brise d’Eté

Time Only Prize:
H. Moser & Cie, Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

Men’s Watch Prize:
Voutilainen, KV20i Reversed

Men’s Complication Watch Prize:
De Bethune, DB Kind Of Grande Complication

Tourbillon Watch Prize:
Daniel Roth, Tourbillon Souscription

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize:
Laurent Ferrier, Classic Moon Silver

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize:
Bovet 1822, Récital 28 Prowess 1

Chronograph Watch Prize:
Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud X Massena Lab

Iconic Watch Prize:
Piaget, Polo 79

Sports Watch Prize:
Ming, 37.09 Bluefin

Jewellery Watch Prize:
Chopard, Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize:
Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté

“Petite Aiguille” Prize:
Kudoke, 3 Salmon

Challenge Watch Prize:
Otsuka Lotec, No.6

Eco-innovation Prize:
Chopard, L.U.C Qualité Fleurier

Audacity Prize:
Berneron, Mirage Sienna

Horological Revelation Prize:
Rémy Cools, Tourbillon Atelier

Chronometry Prize:
Bernhard Lederer, 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer

Special Jury Prize:
Jean-Pierre Hagmann

November 21, 2024