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Ever since it was founded in 1904, the Hölstein-based watchmaking company has been deeply attached to Nature and the beauty of the valley surrounding it. Over the course of its 120-year history, its out-of-the-way location has shaped a company that has been able to stand out from the crowd and follow a path that makes sense not only for the planet, but also for its loyal customers.
Solid foundations
Oris was founded in Hölstein on 1 June 1904, when Paul Cattin and Georges Christian arrived in the Waldenburg valley to establish a new kind of watchmaking company. The two entrepreneurs had a simple vision: to combine the tradition of mechanical watchmaking with the most advanced tools of the time to produce high-quality timepieces.
The name Oris was inspired by a brook flowing not far from the workshops, a sign of the company’s attachment to Nature and the beauty of the surrounding valley. The original factory has been modernised over time, while remaining on the same site, perpetuating its roots in the village and the community.
From the outset, the company was innovative in its approach to society. A pioneer in employee well-being and inclusion, it built houses for artisans and their families. Transport for those living to the north in Basel was provided by shuttle buses, while canteens were available to all. The workshops were staffed by both men and women, positioning Oris as an employer ahead of its time.
“The joys of mechanics”
The Oris founders’ vision was to create accurate watches that performed their function reliably, while also brining joy to their owners. This concept, called “The joys of mechanics”, is still firmly embedded in the corporate philosophy.
Over the decades, this powerful idea has propelled Oris to countless successes. In the 1960s, Oris was one of the largest watch companies in Switzerland. Thanks to its ability to design movements and manufacture its own tools, it employed more than a thousand people. By the end of the 1970s, it had developed and put into production 279 calibres, consolidating its reputation as a brand of high-quality, meticulously designed watches.
Iconic timepieces
As early as the 1910s, at the dawn of the aviation boom, Oris began making timepieces intended for pilots. It quickly established itself as a major manufacturer of tool watches capable of withstanding the intensity of military action.
For example, the 1938 Big Crown, with its oversized crown, pointer-type date function and clear dial design, landed on the wrists of many aviators. This model was sought after for its reliability and legibility in flight. Today, more than 85 years later, the Big Crown Pointer Date is still in production, remaining a signature of the Manufacture.
Similarly, Oris has developed countless water-resistant watches since the 1960s, when recreational scuba diving began to spread. These hard-wearing models served as test beds for a whole range of innovations. The company filed patents for its bezel locking system and various devices for easily adjusting straps or holding them more securely to the wrist.
A new era in mechanical engineering
The 1980s saw major upheavals in the Swiss watch industry. Oris was given a new lease on life in 1982, when Dr Rolf Portmann and Ulrich W. Herzog took the helm through a management buy-out. Together, they propelled the company into a new era by focusing on mechanical movements at a time when many were turning to quartz.
This idea proved prescient during the revival of the Swiss watch industry in the 1990s. At that time, buyers began to look for products that went beyond the ephemeral consumerism embodied by mass-produced quartz watches. Entirely independent and exclusively mechanical, Oris played a central role in this revival.
In the 2010s, the Manufacture relaunched its programme of creating mechanical movements. It released the Calibre 100 series to celebrate its 110th anniversary. This family of calibres, developed in-house, offers a 10-day power reserve and a non-linear power-reserve indicator. This unique combination of complications enabled the company to once again become a creative inventor of mechanical movements that were both reliable and aesthetically pleasing.
Production that makes sense
Today, Oris offers collections of entirely mechanical timepieces spanning its 120-year history. These include the Aquis tool watch, the retro Divers Sixty-Five sports watch, the avant-garde ProPilot X and the timeless Big Crown. Each one is designed in keeping with the traditions of Swiss mechanical watchmaking and produced using the most advanced industrial processes.
This rich tradition has recently given rise to the Calibre 400 series, which offers a five-day power reserve, high levels of anti-magnetism, as well as recommended maintenance intervals of ten years and a ten-year warranty.
“Change for the Better”
Behind this CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) campaign slogan lies a 120-year-old philosophy. The brand’s founders were people who cared about the local community and the environment. This was the foundation on which the company was built.
A few years ago, Oris formalised this ideology under the banner “Change for the Better”, a phrase that describes a global programme of activities to preserve and protect the planet, clean up the world’s water and build happy, healthy communities. The brand collaborates with businesses and environmental organisations that are pioneers in social action, environmental campaigners and is positioned alongside some of the most influential changemakers of our time.
In 2021, ClimatePartner awarded the company climate neutral status, which includes a programme of emissions offsetting and, more importantly, the launch of a programme of carbon reduction initiatives. As part of this process, Oris has committed to reducing its total carbon emissions by 10% per year for three years, starting in 2022.
July 11, 2024