Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2017

This 2017 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) prize-giving ceremony was held in the city’s Théâtre du Léman. A jury composed of 28 experts from a variety of backgrounds passionately undertook the task of selecting the 72 timepieces nominated in the various categories. Compered by Lauriane Gilléron and Edouard Baer, this key fixture in the watch industry colour was tinged with a subtle touch of humour.

On this occasion, Carlo Lamprecht officialised a process that he had discreetly undertaken prior to the ceremony. Welcomed onto the stage by State Councillor Pierre Maudet, the President of the GPHG Foundation announced that he was stepping down and symbolically handed over to his successor, former Swiss ambassador Raymond Lorétan.

Literally placing the transmission of knowledge centre-stage, the Jury paid tribute to the enamelling specialists Suzanne Rohr and Anita Porchet, thereby highlighting their art that they practice to striking perfection. Also rewarding the enduring nature of watchmaking skills, the Prize for the Best Young Student at the Geneva Watchmaking School was awarded this year to Besarta Murti, who earned a 5.6/6 grade average for her first year studies.

The supreme “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix was awarded to Chopard for its L.U.C Full Strike timepiece. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of the watchmaking Maison, was particularly touched to be handed this distinction by Pierre Maudet. The prize-winning model unveiled in 2016 revisits one of the major horological complications, while adding an innovative touch respectful of the grand movement-making tradition. The brand’s other co-president, Caroline Scheufele, accepted the Jewellery Watch Prize for the Lotus Blanc watch. This 25.66-carat timepiece is poetically revealed by the unfurling of its graceful corolla. The sparkling petals move as one, while the flowing bracelet composed of slender rows of diamonds evoke the water on which the bloom gently rests.

Another firm to have won two trophies that evening was Parmigiani Fleurier with its Tonda Chronor Anniversary (Chronograph Watch Prize) and Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde (Travel Time Prize). Presented for the brand’s 20th anniversary, the first of these models features a Grand Feu enamel dial, a split-seconds chronograph governed by two column wheels, and a large date display. This model is driven by an entirely in-house pink gold movement beating at the cadence of 36,000 vph. The second model displays two time zones complete with minutes indication. Michel Parmigiani, together with Steve Amstutz, VP and COO of the Maison, came on stage to receive their trophy.

Third firm to win two prizes, Bulgari was first awarded the Men’s Watch Prize for its Octo Finissimo Automatic. This model with its minimalist yet powerful design magnifies the beauty of time. Its 2.23mm ultra-thin self-winding movement is housed in a 5.15mm thick case with a 40mm diameter. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton won the Tourbillon and Escapement Watch Prize. Featuring an ultra-thin entirely openworked 253-part flying tourbillon, its movement comprises a barrel held by three ball-bearing mechanisms, thereby doubling the thickness of the barrel spring and ensuring an 80% larger power reserve.

The jury sprung a surprise by awarding the Revival Prize to a contemporary interpretation of a vintage model. Walter von Kaenel, President of the brand based in St. Imier, expressed his gratitude to the product team, the line manager as well as the personnel of the Heritage department who all played a major role in developing the prize-winning Avigation BigEye watch.

The Innovation Watch Prize honoured Zenith and its revolutionary oscillator which breaks firmly established watchmaking principles. A timepiece of peerless precision, the Defy Lab model is equipped with this monolithic component made of monocrystalline silicon and measuring a mere 0.5mm thick. This technological advance thereby replaces the traditional sprung balance with its 30 or so components.

In the charming world of feminine timepieces, the Ladies’ Watch Prize was awarded to the Première Camélia Skeleton watch by Chanel. This supremely transparent model celebrates femininity while displaying particularly contemporary curves. The refined and light movement blends seamlessly into the overall aesthetic of this model. Nicolas Beau, the brand’s international Watchmaking Director, received this distinction crowning 30 years of this model.

The supremely poetic Lady Arpels Papillon Automate by Van Cleef & Arpels received the Ladies’ High-Mech Prize. The essence of nature seems to come to life in this 40mm timepiece. Equipped with a random automaton modulethat can also be triggered on request, it becomes the playground of a butterfly that flutters its wings in random patterns, reflecting the pace of its owner’s life. Set with blue, mauve and violet gems, the dial is graced with transparent domed grasses, clothed in a greenish-blue graded shades of curved plique-à-jour enamel, a new technique developed by the Maison.

The Calendar Watch Prize was won by Greubel Forsey for its QP à Equation model. Featuring no less than 624 components, three patents and a combination of two inventions, this distillation of technical sophistication called for eight years of work. It comprises a perpetual calendar complete with an equation of time. To produce this complication, a mechanical computer – located on the back of the watch – was required so as to simplify the ergonomics and legibility of the various functions, as well as the fast bidirectional crown winding. CEO Stephen Forsey was presented with the prize by Pierre Maillard, editor-in-chief of Europa Star; and Zhixiang Ding, publisher and editor-in-chief of Chronos China.

Independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour revealed the model chosen to receive the Mechanical Exceptional Watch Prize: Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, by Vacheron Constantin, won over the jury by its concentrated blend of technical assets. This one-of-a-kind creation ingeniously combines astronomy and the watchmaking art in a white gold star-studded composition. On this tourbillon model with its six barrels ensuring a three-week power reserve, a total of 23 complications are displayed on the front and back of the watch, telling the time in three different modes – civilian, solar and sidereal – each with its own gear train.

The “Petite Aiguille” Prize annually rewards a timepiece with a price not exceeding 8,000 Swiss francs. This year, it was awarded to Tudor for the Black Bay Chrono model. Its COSC-certifed model has an over 70-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring. Boasting exceptional sturdiness and reliability, it stems from a collaborative endeavour with Breitling and thus benefits from the development and production expertise of both brands.

Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Regatta watch – dedicated to the nautical world as its name implies – was awarded the Sports Watch Prize. Equipped with a pointer-type countdown function that can be set from 1 to 10 minutes, this regatta chronograph is clearly built for competition. At the end of the countdown period, the bidirectional sweep seconds hand sets off again clockwise and begins timing the race itself. This eminently useful function provides clear, intuitive and accurate readings in actual sailing conditions.

An authentic watchmaking masterpiece, the Aki-No-Kure watch by Voutilainen was honoured with the Artistic Crafts Watch Prize. This model displays striking contrasts between the understated elegance of the case and the finely lacquered dial with its countless subtle nuances. Imbued with the inimitable touch of the Japanese artistic craft, this creation required more than a thousand hours of meticulous work in order to create the finely fashioned dial, bridges and double case-back. The raw materials used for this creation are gold dust and gold leaf, Yakou-gai (great green turban shell), and Awabigai (abalone shell from New Zealand). This one-of-a-kind, entirely hand-crafted creation is a perfect blend of Japanese tradition and Swiss Haute Horlogerie.

This 17^th edition ended on a high note with the traditional lively cocktail reception, while the gala dinner enabled handpicked guests to prolong the festive occasion.

November 23, 2017