Ferdinand Berthoud wins the "Aiguille d’or"

Presented by the tandem Frédéric Beigbeder and Gaspard Proust, this sixteenth edition of the Grand prix d'horlogerie of Geneva was organised in the Théâtre du Léman in Calvin’s City. Twenty-seven experts drawn from very different backgrounds took part in the selection of the watches and finally chose 72 timepieces in the different categories. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele won the supreme award, the Aiguille d’or for the Chronometer Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1. The trophy was presented to him by Stephen Forsey, CEO of Greubel Forsey and Pierre Maudet, Genevan Councillor of State. When the co-chairman of Chopard discovered this brand which had been dormant for more than two hundred years, he decided to revive it as a tribute to the master watchmaker who was born in the Val-de-Travers in 1727. Taking its inspiration from the marine clock M.M. No. 6 created in 1777 and kept in the L.U.CEUM, the Chopard Museum, the Chronometer FB 1 houses a movement with a constant force device, a fusée-chain type transmission and a superb pillar construction. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele was emotional and confessed his astonishment and pride at having won this supreme award because he and his entire team had dedicated a great deal of time and energy to the creation of this piece.

The public also paid tribute to history by awarding the Public Prize to the 33 bis Quai des Bergues timepiece by Czapek. A fine anniversary gift for Xavier de Roquemaurel and Harry Guhl who had relaunched the brand just one year previously when they unveiled a first piece inspired by the pocket watch reference No. 3430 manufactured by François Czapek of Geneva in around the year 1850.

Presentation of the prizes continued with intermissions for artistic song and dance performances. The Ladies Watch prize was awarded to Piaget for its Limelight Gala Milanese Bracelet. The house also took the Artistic Crafts Watch prize with its Protocol XXL "Secrets & Lights" Venice Micro-Mosaic timepiece. Comprising 5,000 minute glass tesserae this piece reveals a remarkable view of Santa Maria della Salute basilica overlooking the mouth of the Grand Canal.

Another firm to have won two trophies on this particular evening was Girard-Perregaux with its Cat's Eye Tourbillon with Gold Bridge (Ladies’ High-Mech Prize) and the La Esmeralda Tourbillon in rose gold (Tourbillon Watch Prize) inspired by the Tourbillon sous Trois Ponts d’Or (Three Gold Bridges Tourbillon) that won the gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1889. An exceptional duo of distinctions for this manufacture which is celebrating its 225^th anniversary this year.

In a more masculine vein, the Men’s Watch Prize went to Grönefeld for its 1941 Remontoire model. The Chronograph Watch Prize was awarded to the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition by Montblanc. Delphine Favier, Managing Director of Montblanc Switzerland, was one of the few prominent women to come on stage to receive a trophy. The Calendar Watch Prize for its part went to MB&F for its Legacy Machine Perpetual. Created in collaboration with the independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, this piece is a total reinvention of one of the most traditional watchmaking complications, the perpetual calendar. The LM Perpetual features a fully integrated calibre with 581 components – no module and no base movement - incorporating a revolutionary new system for calculating the number of days in each month. This perpetual calendar model holistically reinterprets the traditional aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on dial-free display underneath a spectacular suspended balance.

While some watches incorporate impressive technology, others highlight their precious quality. Such is the case for the Secret Watch "Signature Grenat" by Chanel which won the Jewellery Watch Prize. A veritable ode to the beauty and femininity of diamonds and precious stones, this timepiece pays tribute to the iconic quilting motif which Coco Chanel used in her day on a small rectangular bag fitted with a chain to wear as a shoulder strap. The prominent centre of this wrist watch is a cushion-cut carmine garnet of 39.9 carats which opens up delicately to discretely reveal the time displayed on a dial that is also set with gemstones.

Turning now to specialties, mention must be made of the House of Fabergé which took first prize in the Travel Time category for its Visionnaire DTZ. Thanks to the AGH 6924 calibre designed exclusively for the brand by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor), the second time zone is displayed in an original way through an aperture at the centre of the watch with an optical system which amplifies the size of the 24 hour disc numeral. Under the exceptions heading, the house of Audemars Piguet won the Mechanical Exception Watch Prize for its Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie minute repeater benefiting from exceptional acoustic performance with a supremely clear and sustained tone. The outcome of eight years of development work, this timepiece is enhanced by three acoustic innovations that are nothing short of patented feats of technical prowess.

In the Sports Watch category, Eberhard & Co took its place on the highest step of the podium with its Scafograph 300. As a contemporary reinterpretation of a historic model by the brand, this self-winding mechanical diver’s watch features a steel case water-resistant to 300 metres.

The "Petite Aiguille" or Small Hand Prize is a recompense at each edition of this event for a timepiece priced at no more than 8,000 francs. This year it went to Tudor for its Heritage Black Bay Bronze. The Revival Watch Prize for its part rewards the best iconic reinterpretation of a watch. TAG Heuer won the 2016 award for its Heuer Monza Chronograph. In 1976, Jack Heuer, the great grandson of the firm’s founder, designed a chronograph to celebrate the first World Championship title won by Niki Lauda driving a Ferrari. The watchmaking firm was then the official timekeeper for the Scuderia and this was the very first time that the word Monza appeared on a watch dial. Close to the spirit of the original, the 2016 reissue features the two key functions of this timepiece: the pulsometer and the tachymeter scale using the same character font as the original model.

Last but not least, the Special Jury Prize was awarded to The George Daniels Educational Trust which perpetuates the expertise of the English watchmaker who invented the famous coaxial escapement. The Best Young Student’s Prize was presented to Marion Grandjean who is enrolled at the Geneva School of Watchmaking. She won a grant from the Edmond de Rothschild Bank which partnered the event for the sixth year in succession.

Before this evening, the 72 finalist watches were shown in Seoul, Rome and Geneva. The prize-winning timepieces delighted visitors to Dubai Watch Week held on 15 to 19 November last.

As an annual reward for excellence in the 12^th Art, the trophy for the Geneva Grand prix d'horlogerie has been styled and designed by the Genevan graphic artist and designer Roger Pfund. The hand symbolises expertise and mastery which are essential features of the watchmaking professions. The inspiration for the hand is taken from the fresco on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel painted by Michelangelo in which God can be seen touching the hand held out by Adam to breathe life into him. This “Oscar” also symbolises memory and the transmission of knowledge.

December 01, 2016